Marie CAFIERO

* People wishing to attend the defense must first sign a confidentiality agreement. Access to competing companies is not allowed.

Composition of the jury:

•    Mr. Thibault ROQUES-CARMES, Reviewer
•    Mr. Adem GHARSALLAOUI,  Reviewer
•    Mrs. Florence AGNELY, Examiner
•    Mr. Michel GRISEL, Examiner
•    Mrs. Claire DUFOUR, Examiner

 Keywords: emulsion, interface, oxidation, cosmetic, skin biology

Abstract: Facing current societal challenges, the demand for more sustainable products adds to the cosmetic sector’s existing challenges, particularly regarding sensory and biological properties. This project focuses on designing new cosmetic matrices based on three key dimensions: surfactant-free structuring, chemical and biological performances, and reduced environmental footprint. The study investigates the mechanisms involved in stabilizing low-water-content emulsions stabilized solely by particles. Two HIPPE (High Internal Phase Pickering Emulsions) microstructures were selected through a screening approach. Experimental design studies on their composition provided a deeper understanding of structuring mechanisms, factor interactions, and their functional properties. Based on the identified optimal formulations, a combination of multidisciplinary studies (physical, chemical, and biological) enabled the evaluation of the performance of matrices enriched with cosmetic active ingredients through an integrative approach. Additional work related to drying technologies and environmental impact assessment using Life Cycle Analysis (LCA) was also conducted.